Diego at the Capuchinas

Diego & Dave Go to Guatemala

February 2002

Guatemala City is where I did most of my growing up, and the sights, scents and tastes are still very vivid in my mind. The city has sure changed in fifteen years, and not for the better. There I was, on vacation with my friend Dave, and still my heart ached to see the condition of what once was my home. There was a strong sense of nostalgia and deep sadness attached to that place.

The pictures below are pretty much downtown.On the first one, I am standing in front of the fountain in the middle of the central park. Distances to anywhere in Guatemala are measured from this fountain. The pink church is the Yurrita, all the beautiful work in great jeopardy of being lost (due to crumbling and time you silly!). The next picture shows Dave having a nice cold Guatemala beer. I figured if I kept him drunk, the city wouldn't look too bad. The big arch crossing the street is the main post office. The following picture is funny, the big truck selling Gallo Beer had backed up right up to the gates of the sacristy of the main cathedral (big party coming up I guess). Dave is standing in front of the Cathedral facing the park, and I am on the same park standing in front of the National Palace.

Guatemala City
Guatemala City
Guatemala City
Guatemala City
Guatemala City
Guatemala City
Guatemala City
Guatemala City
Guatemala City
Guatemala City
Guatemala City
Guatemala City
Guatemala City
Guatemala City
 
Antigua Guatemala on the other hand although it does not hold the sentimental value of the city, I think it is the most beautiful city in the world. There is something about the cobble stone streets, the indigenous people with their colorful clothing, the history represented in both the architecture of the buildings and the character of the people, the fantastic food, and the volcano watching over your every move on the city, that makes this place pure magic.
 
There was not many spots I did not wanted to photograph, the colors vibrant and true teased my every sense.  During my childhood I took many trips with my family to this place. I remember running through the convent ruins with my cousins Chofo and Claudia playing, always scared and cautious not to run into the many ghost that live permanently in these ruins.
 
Antigua is a place where the ghosts are as real as the bed you sleep on, god is still in business, the devil walks the streets a night, and the lines between good and evil are very clear. The catholic religion is very much present and years of tradition are respected as you can see the pictures of the processions that take place during Easter week. There is one bar in the whole city where they have a sort of gay friendly night on Thursdays.
 
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala

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The last night we were there, we went to eat at this great place we had been eating all week. The food was so good and our time was so limited, that we would order three to four entrees at each meal. It was the only way for me to catch up with all the food I hadn't eaten in so long, and it was a great crash course for Dave on Guatemalan cuisine. You can see the picture of the woman making tortillas by hand. Tortilllas that would practically melt in your mouth along with the black beans, fried plantains and cold cervezas. I was so fucking happy right there and then!

The last night we were there, the manager of the restaurant came over to thank us for eating there for the last four days (and spending a lot of  money), and to offer us a table on the upper balcony, so we could see the volcano erupting. Dave and I sat there in marvel starring at the lava come down the mountain put a fantastic show, specially as you recalled that the city had been destroy twice by the volcano already.

"I guess if the volcano was going to explode and it was dangerous, there would be people running" said Dave looking around at everyone watching the volcano erupt.

To what I replied, "I am sure someone in Pompeii said the exact words back then" and I kept on eating.

You can see pictures of the volcano erupting below.

Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
 
Taken from the web site of the Guatemalan embassy in Washington:
 
Guatemala is, culturally, one of the most diversified societies in Latin America.    It is a multi cultural, multilingual and multiethnic nation formed of  Mayan, "Ladina", Spanish, European, Asian, Garifuna and Xinca Cultures. In this Era of Peace and Democracy, based on the "Guatemalan Accords of Long and Lasting Peace", it is recognized that our country is a merger of cultural values, philosophies, scientific and technological knowledge. Guatemala has a historical collective memory, of millenary cultures. 

The Mayan society was one of the most advanced Precolombine cultures in the World; the Garifuna culture, which is abundant in colorful expressions and very warm people; and the Xincas, who are highly spiritual.   Each of these ways of seeing life and all its facets, combined with the influence of the Western World brought in by the Europeans, as well as the mystic ways of the Asians, make Guatemala a nation with a bright future towards prosperity and peace.

Besides Spanish, which traditionally was considered the official language, there are 23 indigenous languages with a common Mayan root.     The communities use their native languages within the region, but Spanish is widely used to communicate amongst indigenous groups due to the marked differences in the 23 Mayan languages.   Nevertheless, the daily contact of tourism from all origins of the Globe has also made of English an important factor.  Therefore, Spanish is spoken everywhere, and increasingly, English is also becoming a tool of communication.   Nowadays, education, execution of the law, and religious activities are conducted in both Spanish and the local dialect. 

Even the Modernization Process of the Judiciary Branch, when applied to the rural area includes the use of cultural and linguistic characteristics, not only because of high respect towards the local community, but also for efficiency purpose. 

Guatemala Facts:
 
TOTAL AREA: 108,890 sq km (42,042 sq mi)
COASTLINE: 400 km
DISPUTES: claims Belize, but boundary negotiations are under way
CLIMATE: tropical; hot, humid in lowlands; cooler in highlands
TERRAIN: mostly mountains with narrow coastal plains and rolling limestone plateau (Peten)
NATURAL RESOURCES: crude oil, nickel, rare woods, fish, chicle
POPULATION, YEAR 2000: 11,819,000
ETHNIC DIVISIONS: 56% Ladino (mestizo--mixed Indian and European ancestry), 44% Indian
RELIGION: predominantly Roman Catholic; also Protestant, traditional Mayan
LANGUAGE: Spanish, but over 40% of the population speaks an Indian language as a primary tongue (18 Indian dialects, including Quiche, Cakchiquel, Kekchi)

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